Earlier this year, I went on a trip to Vietnam and was able to do something I’ve wanted for a long time: create the perfect pieces for my wardrobe, from scratch.

I’m very tall, and finding clothes that fit me properly, let alone match my personal style, has always been difficult. Most off-the-rack options are either too short or not built with my proportions in mind. I had a lot of “good enough” pieces, but they always had room for improvement. Thoughts like “this fits my hips perfectly but I wish it was 2cm longer” or “I wish this shirt had pockets on the front and was the same fabric/colors as my trousers” were very common for me. So when the opportunity came to have custom clothing made, I decided to take full advantage of it.

This post walks through how I figured out what to design, why I made the choices I did, and how it all turned out.

Getting started

The first step was figuring out the scope. I decided to focus on creating summer pieces. Winterwear, especially the knitwear which I prefer when it’s colder out, is not something that Hoi Ahn (the city I got my clothes made) specializes in. Lightweight cotton and linen pieces are easier to commission. So I decided to replace three of my “good enough” linen trousers to make them perfect, replace one of my linen shirts, and add an extra one to give me more options.

Alongside my summer staples, I planned for three other categories: a formal outfit I could wear as a guest to most weddings, a versatile beach-appropriate piece, and a pair of pajamas that could double as loungewear.

Understanding my real life needs

Before going to hunt for inspiration, I looked at what I actually wear. I started with my laundry hamper and those “good enough” pieces. The pieces that I wear again and again, the ones that end up in the wash the most, are usually the most functional and comfortable. That became my starting point.

From there, I built a preference profile (this is something I cover in my workbook). I listed what I consistently love wearing and what I tend to avoid (these are the things that you own but never wear). I included things like preferred cuts, colors, fabrics, and functional features such as pocket size or how see-through fabric is. This gave me a practical foundation to work from.

Here’s what I knew I wanted:

Trousers and Tops

• Long enough sleeves and pant legs
• Oversized, comfortable tops that still look intentional
• No shorts or skirts, just breathable pieces that still offer full coverage
• Fabrics that protect my skin from the sun and allow me to dress modestly for travel to any country
• I carry my weight in my thighs, so wide-leg bottoms are going to stay comfortable whether I lose or gain a few pounds
• High waists to define my shape when I want to
• Deep, functional pockets
• Neutral colors that go with almost all my other stuff
• Fabric that is not see-through, I want to be able to wear any color undergarments
• Machine washable
• Cotton or linen

Beach Garment

• Something I could wear as a swimsuit coverup that would still look appropriate for breakfast or even wearing it into town
• This is something I’d only wear on vacation, so I only want one but it has to be very versatile
• The colors should still go with the rest of my wardrobe, print optional, though it would have to be subtle
• Cotton or linen
• Machine washable
• Pockets!

Wedding Outfit

• A color that is appropriate for most weddings, does not have to match my other stuff, but should work with my skin/hair combo (blues or cool purples)
• No dress/skirt
• Something floor length so I can wear it with many different kinds of shoes
• A two-piece outfit since I like the look of jumpsuits but dislike wearing them
• Wide-leg trousers with a smaller, more structured top
• Built in bra
• A warm layer I could remove easily depending on the venue
• Okay with synthetics so wrinkling is less of an issue
• Machine washable
• Pockets!

Pajamas

• A remake of my favorite oversized shirt that I sleep in
• Matching lounge trousers that I could wear while lounging on travels
• Heavy weight cotton
• Machine washable
• Pockets!

Collecting and then assessing my inspiration

It’s important to list your practical real life needs before collecting inspiration because you might get carried away with the inspiration and it might cloud your judgement. So, once I had a sense of how many items and what I needed more practically, I began collecting visual references. I used Pinterest and also paid attention to outfits I admired in real life. I organized my inspiration into separate boards for summer clothes, wedding outfits, and pajamas. This is basically like a vision/mood board.

 After gathering plenty of images, I went back through them and looked for patterns. I paid attention to repeating elements like necklines, styles, and silhouettes. I noticed the kinds of color combinations and layering techniques that kept showing up. These themes helped me really get into the details of what I was looking for in each garment. 

Putting it all together

Once I had a clear sense of what I needed and what I was drawn to, I started designing each item. Using the preference profile as non-negotiable elements, and then adding the specific details from my inspiration assessment. 

I don’t have any background in clothing design, so it was most important to communicate clearly so the people who would be helping me could let their expertise shine. For every piece I wanted to have designed I had the following things to show them:

Real life examples

Up to 4 examples of something very similar to the piece in terms of vibe and structure. These were photos from my inspiration boards

Details 

Pictures of specific details like pocket shapes, closures, lengths, and anything else (I also listed them for myself so I wouldn’t forget to point them out)

Sketches

This was more for fun but I also drew some of those fashion drawings (I used something called a croquis template for the base)

Color/Prints

Some ideas about colors, and then if I was looking for a print, I also added examples of prints I liked (spoiler alert: even though this place had sooooo many prints, it was nearly impossible to find something I liked. I think having some visual options on paper helped me stay focused and prevented me from getting overwhelmed in the moment though.)

 I combined all of that into a brief for each concept:

Having all of this ready to share made it much easier to explain exactly what I wanted to the tailor. I also brought my most “close to perfect” shirt and trousers as examples. I then just said how I wanted them to be different and they made the perfect replacements. 

How the process went

I visited Be Be Tailor in Hoi An with my notes and references. They are on the more expensive side for Hoi A tailors but their quality is great, and you’re getting custom made clothing, completely made to measure, in less than a week. 

Technically you could show up with no inspiration or plan and they can help you design something, but I wanted to  create things that I will be wearing for as long as possible so I came prepared. It was still very collaborative, they asked questions about things I hadn’t even thought of and gave me great guidance. After picking fabrics and getting the designs as clear as possible I went back to the hotel and they told me to come back in 2 days for a fitting.

During the fitting I tried on all of the unfinished items. This was a moment for them to check how the overall fit was. The items hadn’t been hemmed yet and they didn’t have buttons or closures. They pinned everything to make sure the lengths were perfect and then they drew out the locations for buttons to make sure there would be no gapping. They invited me back the next day. 

Almost everything was perfect when I tried on the final items with the exception of the zipper on the top of the wedding outfit. They asked me to hang around while they changed the bodice and it ended up being great. They sent everything to the hotel that same evening and I was able to wear my wedding outfit to the wedding I was in Vietnam for the next day! (I did pack an alternative just in case it didn’t work out).

The Results

Here’s how everything turned out:

Shirts

I love them. They are roomy, breathable, and hit the exact length I was hoping for. I can wear them on their own on hot days or with a scoop neck shirt underneath on cooler days.

Trousers 

All of them fit perfectly and I’ve worn them constantly since returning home. 

Beach dress

It’s a great piece and works exactly as intended, although I didn’t realize the inside of the fabric would be white, which shows when it moves. Not a dealbreaker, but something I would consider next time.

Wedding outfit 

I’ve already worn it to two weddings and felt amazing each time. The pieces have held up well in the wash and the fit feels perfect, even after eating and when dancing (don't mind the henna on my hands, I took the photos after one of the weddings).

Pajamas

These were the only real miss. I absolutely love the fit and style but I chose a fabric that turned out to be too heavy for sleeping. I might eventually remake them in a lighter material.

Final Thoughts

I am a designer by trade, but all my stuff is digital. It was so cool to go through the process of designing something that would be turned into something tangible. It was also kind of scary, when designing digital things, there is a little more flexibility in being able to change things after, but here, once it’s made, it’s made, so there was even more emphasis on the planning than usual.

I now have clothes that are exactly how I envisioned them to be, that suit my life and my preferences. My wardrobe is feeling more and more complete. I barely have ”I wish” moments these days, which is just so incredible.

If you ever have the opportunity to have clothes made just for you, I highly recommend going in with a clear idea of what you want and what works for you. You do not need to be a designer, you just need to pay attention to what you already wear, find what inspires you, and be honest about what feels good to live in.